Everything about Upstate New York totally explained
Upstate New York is the region of
New York State north of the core of the
New York metropolitan area. It has a population of 7,121,911 out of New York State's total 18,976,457. Were it an independent state, it would be ranked 13th by population.
Definition
There is no clear or official boundary between Upstate New York and
Downstate New York, but the term "Upstate" is sometimes used to refer to the whole of the state besides
New York City,
Long Island and the lower Hudson Valley (
Westchester County and
Rockland County).
Another common perception of the Upstate/Downstate boundary locates it at the point at which New York's
suburbs segue into its
exurbs. This line would place most, but not all, of Westchester and Rockland counties south of the boundary, putting the northwestern edge of Rockland as well as the northernmost quarter of Westchester (such as Peekskill) in Upstate New York.
This definition of Upstate New York corresponds to the orange, yellow, and green areas on the map above.
A more nuanced view would suggest the boundary lies further north. Because most New York City bedroom communities in Dutchess and Orange counties are situated in the southern part of those counties and the city's suburban public transportation system extends some distance north, the Upstate/Downstate boundary can be defined roughly by a border extended from
Wassaic (where Metro-North's
Harlem Line ends) across to
Poughkeepsie, down to
Newburgh and then across to
Middletown and
Port Jervis.
This definition of Upstate New York corresponds to the yellow and green areas on the map above and roughly corresponds with the area north of
Interstate 84. This imaginary line also demarcates the northernmost reach of high housing prices associated with the Downstate region in contrast to the relatively low housing costs found further Upstate.
One factor complicating this issue is the fact that many communities clearly beyond the New York City commuter orbit are part of the City's
media market, which includes Dutchess, Ulster and Sullivan counties, and thus don't get local television (via cable) from Albany or Binghamton TV stations.
(External Link
)
For some, the term Upstate evokes sentiments of rural lifestyles and traditional values contrary to those of New York City. In the New York metropolitan area, usage of the term "Upstate New York" typically implies unfamiliarity with (and often condescension towards) the area that the speaker is denoting as such. It denotes areas that are both somewhat north of and considerably more rural than the home location of the speaker. Usage of the term is often taken to be an insulting manifestation of the famous
New Yorker magazine's view of the world.
New York City is dependent on upstate for a variety of services; it's the source of the city's water supply via the
Delaware Aqueduct and the
Catskill Aqueduct; much of the city's electric power supply comes from state owned
hydroelectric plants at
Niagara Falls and the
St. Lawrence River such as the
Robert Moses power station; and most of the state's prisons are upstate; hence the popular term "being sent up the river" (however, the term originally referred to
Sing Sing, which is "up the
Hudson River" from
New York City, but being in
Ossining in
Westchester County is still in the "downstate" region). Conversely, the operation of state facilities providing these services is an important part of the upstate economy.
Culture
The region is culturally and economically distinct from the New York City area, though the Hudson Valley counties of
Putnam,
Orange,
Dutchess,
Ulster, and even
Albany are increasingly peripheral sections of the New York City metro area. The northern upstate area consists of a handful of small and medium-sized cities, with surrounding suburbs, amidst vast rural areas.
Western New York has many cultural and economic ties to the other
Great Lakes states as well as
Southern Ontario, while the
Capital District, the
Hudson Valley, the
Mohawk Valley and the
Plattsburgh area have ties to
New England (In fact, cultural leanings in the extreme northeastern portion of the state also cross the border so-to-speak with the presence of prominent French and Anglo Canadian ties - cultural, economic, and familial. Plattsburgh, for example, is an historically French town with closer ties to its neighbors in the Montreal and Vermont areas than to the rest of the state.). Some literary and cinematic depictions of upstate present a sense of small town,
Midwestern lifetyles, such as
It's a Wonderful Life, set in a small upstate town in the
1940s.
During the 1990s and the 2000s this area has suffered slow job growth
(External Link
) and a rapid loss of young adults.
(External Link
) It has been argued, however, that Upstate doesn't suffer from "brain drain" as much as it suffers from lack of "brain gain" (for example other areas of the country attract more educated persons than does Upstate.)
A common misconception is that the predominant ethnic group in upstate are
WASPs. Actually residents of English ancestry are dominant in only a handful of rural counties. but still have a strong presence in the remaining counties.The Hudson Valley, the Capital District and the
Syracuse region are heavily Irish American, while the
North Country is heavily French Canadian. Italian Americans are the largest ethnic group in
Oneida County,
Broome County,
Utica and
Schenectady, while German ancestry is most common across western New York.
Persons of Polish ancestry are predominant in
Buffalo and its close suburbs. There is also a significant presence of indigenous
Iroquois Native Americans in the area, who mostly congregate on several reservations: the
Seneca nation and
Tonawanda Band of Seneca Indians in
Western New York, the
Onondaga nation south of
Syracuse, the
Oneida nation of
Oneida, and the
Mohawk nation in
St. Lawrence County.
The only two major league professional sports teams in Upstate New York are the
Buffalo Bills of the
National Football League (NFL) and the
Buffalo Sabres of the
National Hockey League (NHL). As a result, the collegiate sports program at Syracuse University (
Syracuse Orange) attracts significant regional attention, as do minor league baseball and hockey teams. Professional sports teams from New York City, northern
New Jersey, and
Boston all have followings in the Capital District, while some Western New York sports fans follow teams from
Toronto. In
Rochester several minor league teams play.
Other Upstate New York minor league professional sports teams include the
Syracuse Sky Chiefs of the Triple-A baseball
International League, the
Albany Patroons of the
Continental Basketball Association; and the
Auburn Doubledays,
Oneonta Tigers, the
Jamestown Jammers, the
Tri-City ValleyCats and the
Batavia Muckdogs of the Class A baseball
New York - Penn League.
In
auto racing,
Watkins Glen International Speedway is the only major race track in the area and hosts annual races in the
Indy Racing League and
NASCAR Sprint Cup.
Holland Speedway in
Holland hosts races in the
Whelen All-American Series. In addition, numerous smaller speedways and dirt tracks exist in
Little Valley,
Freedom,
Humphrey,
Granby (serving the city of
Fulton),
Oswego,
Lancaster,
Ransomville and numerous other cities and towns.
Two of the most important
rock festivals of the
20th century were held in Upstate New York. In 1969 the
Woodstock Festival was held in
Bethel, New York, while in 1973 another
multiday festival was held at the
Watkins Glen International Raceway.
Linguistically, from Western New York to as far east as
Utica is part of the
Inland North region of American English dialectology, a region which includes Midwestern cities as far west as
Chicago and
Milwaukee. The Hudson and lower Mohawk Valley has more in common dialectologically with western New England and
New York City.
(External Link
) The dialect of the St. Lawrence Valley has much in common with Canadian speech.
The boundary between the use of the words
pop and
soda to
refer to soft drinks, however, falls further west than the edge of the Inland North, running just to the east of the city of Rochester: Buffalo and Rochester use
pop, like the rest of the Inland North to the west, whereas Syracuse uses
soda, like New England and New York City.
Foodways indigenous to regions of Upstate New York include Plattsburgh's "Michigan" hot dog, a variety of
Coney Island hot dog; the white
hot dog of central and western New York that's known variously as the "White Hot" or "Coney" (pronounced "cooney"); the "
Spiedie" of the
Binghamton area, and perhaps most famously,
Buffalo wings.
Calvin Trillin chronicled the origin of Buffalo wings in the
August 25,
1980 issue of
The New Yorker.
Politics
Often attributed to the region's semi-rural character, there's more
conservatism in culture and politics than found in the more urban downstate area, and is the power base of the state's
Republican Party, especially now that Long Island, a former Republican stronghold, has developed strong Democratic leans.
There are several exceptions to this rule, including
Erie County (Buffalo),
Monroe County (Rochester),
Onondaga County (Syracuse),
Tompkins County (Ithaca),
Albany County (Albany),
Niagara County (Niagara Falls),
Broome County (Binghamton),
Clinton (Plattsburgh),
Franklin, and
St. Lawrence counties (influence of Canada).
Ulster County, while having no urban centers, is the home of SUNY New Paltz. The large student population has consistently voted Democratic in presidential elections.
As a whole, Upstate New York is roughly equally divided in Federal elections between Democrats and Republicans. In
2004,
John Kerry defeated
George W. Bush by less than 1,500 votes (1,553,246 votes to 1,551,971) in the Upstate Region.
The conservatism of the upstate region more closely resembles the
libertarian, socially liberal "Live and let live" conservatism of Vermont, New Hampshire and many of the western states instead of the social conservatism of the southern states and the
Religious Right. Some of the Religious Right's harshest critics within the Republican Party, in fact, have been upstate New York Republicans such as
Amo Houghton and
Jack Quinn. The misunderstanding of the regional differences in upstate's conservative nature has led to significant political difficulties by both major political parties in the area. Since 2001, the Republican Party's efforts to reach out to the area using the religious rhetoric that had been so successful in the South has been met with rejection and ridicule, and was one of the leading causes of the Party's considerable loss of support in upstate since that time.
The influence of
public service labor unions is also a factor in Democratic Party dominance.
Hospitals and
public schools are among the area's largest employers, and these agencies have unionized workers. Unionized workers as a whole make up 1 in 4 New York workers, the most in the nation. These unions, most notably the
Service Employees International Union and
New York State United Teachers, make large purchases of television air time on local television and radio stations during budget negotiations and prior to school budget votes to air commercials featuring
scare tactics threatening the closure of hospitals or emergency rooms, larger class sizes, and reduced care if they don't receive more money. Organized rebuttals have been few and far between;
Eliot Spitzer's use of his personal campaign funds to push through his 2007 reforms is the only recent attempt to answer the unions' dominance.
Upstate politicians have, in fact, sometimes taken the leading role in the moves that give the state its liberal reputation. It was George Michael, an assemblyman from the
Finger Lakes, who in 1970 stunned not only the state but the nation by asking that his vote of "no" on the bill to legalize
abortion in New York be changed to "yes," causing the bill to pass by one vote. (He lost his seat at the next
primary election, as he'd anticipated, but never regretted changing his vote). Nearly three decades later, voters in
Plattsburgh elected Dan Stewart, the state's first openly
gay mayor - a Republican, to boot. Another upstate mayor,
Jason West of
New Paltz, drew national attention in early
2004 when
he officiated at the state's first gay weddings. However, such "liberal oases," which include New Paltz and
Ithaca, tend to be the state's (and the country's) most liberal regions and unrepresentative of the region's politics as a whole.
It should also be noted that the Democratic Party in upstate cities, particularly in Buffalo, also has traditionally leaned further to the right than downstate Democrats.
Jack Quinn, a Republican, was elected from a district that was 57 percent Democratic. Similarly, leading Democrats in the area, including
Dennis Gorski,
Anthony Masiello and
James Griffin, were noted for their fiscal and social conservatism and were often cross-endorsed by the
Conservative Party of New York.
Proponents of the
2008 presidential run by Sen.
Hillary Clinton have pointed to her relative success upstate (she lost the region by less than 10 percent of the vote in 2000) as an argument that she could succeed as a candidate in
red states. Skeptics of such a bid have responded that upstate is, in fact, not as conservative as widely believed, at least not conservative in the manner of what is now the leadership of the Republican Party.
(External Link
).
Most of New York State's most successful Republican politicians, however, such as Rockefeller,
George Pataki,
Thomas Dewey,
Fiorello LaGuardia,
Jacob Javits and
Alfonse D'Amato, came from the downstate region, (although some definitions of the boundary would have Pataki being from upstate). Most upstate Republicans are politically unacceptable to even downstate Republican voters, and the party's financial backers are mostly based downstate (the corollary, of course, being that incumbent New York City politicians rarely win statewide elections, either). Democratic politicians upstate often tend to be (or at least run) more moderate than their downstate compatriots, and sometimes seek the endorsement of the state's
Conservative Party to inoculate them against perceptions of extreme liberalism.
Nevertheless, Republican attempts upstate to court votes by openly appealing to suspicion of the city have often backfired. In 1998 incumbent Republican Senator Al D'Amato's Senate campaign ran television ads in some upstate markets attempting to link his opponent,
Charles Schumer, to a flock of hungry
sharks released from the city to fleece upstate. Schumer went on to win the election and did surprisingly well upstate for a Democrat with deep roots in the city. In turn, he's probably lobbied for "upstate" interests both in and out of government more than any past "downstate"
Democratic senator (for example, he lobbied for
JetBlue to provide flights to
Buffalo and
Syracuse, producing more competition and lower fares at those airports).
Downstate candidates seeking statewide office have often sealed their fate by displaying profound ignorance of upstate geography. One candidate at a forum in Buffalo once referred to "your airport in Albany" ... a city more than 200 miles (320 km) away. In the 2000 Senate race,
Rudolph Giuliani confused the Orange County
village of Monroe with Monroe County, and the ultimate Republican nominee,
Rick Lazio, later released an itinerary confusing
Owego and
Oswego, two communities a considerable distance from each other.
Hillary Clinton won the race, doing much better upstate than expected. Like Charles Schumer, she too has "given back" and lobbied for "upstate" interests more than most past "downstate" Democratic senators (for example, unsuccessfully lobbying for larger
Homeland Security funding for the Buffalo area than its size would normally warrant on the basis of it being on the Canadian border, the finding of a putative
sleeper cell in the nearby city of
Lackawanna in
2002, and the presence of the Eastern United States' most vital electrical power generation facilities, the Robert Moses Niagara Power Plant and the Lewiston Pump Generating Plant).
But while politicians based upstate rarely win elections for governor or U.S. Senator, some have been elected to other lesser statewide offices, such as
lieutenant governor (
Stan Lundine,
Maryanne Krupsak and
Mary Donohue, for instance),
comptroller (
Edward Regan) and
attorney general (
Dennis Vacco). The late
Daniel Patrick Moynihan officially lived on a farm in
Delaware County while serving in the Senate, but he grew up in New York City and spent much of his career there, making him a familiar face to downstate voters.
The sharp differences in ideology have historically fueled many political struggles by upstate conservatives with largely downstate-based Democrats in the
New York Legislature; however the feuds quite often tend to be more on regional lines than on party lines. The most recent major examples were the failed attempt by Syracuse-area assemblyman
Michael Bragman, the
majority leader of that body to seize control of the downstate-dominated state Democratic party in 2000, which was immediately followed by a strong retaliatory backlash against all upstate politicians in state government and the attempt by both Republicans and Democrats to cater to upstate voters by promising to disband the
New York State Thruway, whose toll portions are entirely upstate. Both candidates in the 2006 gubernatorial election (Democrat
Eliot Spitzer and Republican
John Faso) pledged to eliminate the tolls however at the present time only an eight mile stretch of
I-190 in downtown
Buffalo, which had been collecting tolls to be used to keep
I-84 downstate a free highway, has been made toll-free, and in fact the thruway authority has steadily increased tolls annually since 2006. Critics upstate feel that it's unlikely that either party would genuinely be willing to give up such a significant source of revenue, despite promises to the contrary, particularly one that doesn't draw its funding from the population core downstate.
While Republicans have traditionally controlled the State Senate by virtue of holding most seats upstate, the leadership has often been split between senators from Long Island such as
Ralph Marino and upstaters such as the present leader,
Joe Bruno.
In the midterm elections of 2006, many upstate Congressional seats historically held by Republicans came under serious challenge by Democratic contenders, and some (such as the 20th and 24th districts) were lost to Democrats. Slow population growth in the 1990s led legislators to eliminate two upstate House districts in the 2002
reapportionment and leave all downstate districts alone, hence, the influence of upstate in Congress has faded from the days in which
Jack Kemp;
Barber Conable, and
Sam Stratton were prominent House leaders.
Upstate New York
Presidential elections results>
| Year |
Republican |
Democrat |
| 2004 |
49.19% 1,551,971 |
49.23% 1,553,246 |
| 2000 |
45.30% 1,348,93 |
49.33% 1,469,087 |
| 1996 |
36.76% 1,050,511 |
49.66% 1,419,077 |
| 1992 |
36.72% 1,159,280 |
39.31% 1,241,203 |
| 1988 |
52.49% 1,506,011 |
46.71% 1,340,248 |
| 1984 |
60.17% 1,765,919 |
34.49% 1,158,830 |
| 1980 |
47.93% 1,327,072 |
41.65% 1,153,234 |
| 1976 |
55.57% 1,555,430 |
44.06% 1,233,220 |
| 1972 |
63.45% 1,805,076 |
36.30% 1,032,633 |
| 1968 |
49.60% 1,330,622 |
44.12% 1,183,698 |
| 1964 |
31.73% 873,257 |
68.18% 1,876,429 |
| 1960 |
54.05% 1,552,646 |
45.87% 1,317,838 |
Downstate New York
Presidential elections results>
| Year |
Republican |
Democrat |
| 2004 |
33.39% 1,409,657 |
65.42% 2,761,973 |
| 2000 |
27.42% 1,054,391 |
68.64% 2,638,820 |
| 1996 |
25.53% 882,981 |
67.58% 2,337,100 |
| 1992 |
31.24% 1,187,369 |
57.97% 2,203,247 |
| 1988 |
43.57 1,575,860 |
55.51% 2,007,634 |
| 1984 |
49.04% 1,898,844 |
50.64% 1,960,779 |
| 1980 |
45.64% 1,566,759 |
45.88% 1,575,138 |
| 1976 |
41.47% 1,545,361 |
57.87% 2,156,338 |
| 1972 |
55.31% 2,387,702 |
44.44% 1,918,451 |
| 1968 |
40.84% 1,677,310 |
53.44% 2,194,772 |
| 1964 |
31.05% 1,370,302 |
68.80% 3,036,727 |
| 1960 |
42.86% 1,893,773 |
56.86% 2,512,247 |
Geography
The headwaters of the
Delaware,
Susquehanna,
Hudson, and
Allegheny rivers are located in the region. The region is characterized by the major
mountain ranges and large
lakes.
The
Allegheny Plateau extends into west and central New York from the south. The
Catskill Mountains lie in the southeastern part of the state, closer to New York City. The Catskills and the Allegheny Plateau are both part of the
Appalachian Mountains. The northernmost part of the state contains the
Adirondack Mountains, which are sometimes considered part of the Appalachians but are geologically separate, a southern extension of the
Canadian Shield.
In the more mountainous eastern part of Upstate New York, the valleys of the Hudson River and the
Mohawk River were historically important travel corridors and remain so today. Western New York in the vicinity of
Buffalo is very flat, as it was once the bottom of a glacial lake. The only "hills" in
Niagara County are the
Niagara Escarpment, which formed the Falls.
Upstate has a long shared border with
Canadian province of
Ontario divided by water; including the
Lake Erie,
Niagara River,
Lake Ontario and the
St. Lawrence River. It shares a land border with the province of
Quebec in the northernmost part of the state.
The sizes of upstate counties and towns are generally larger in area and smaller in population, compared with the downstate region, although there are exceptions. The state's smallest county in population (
Hamilton County) and largest county in area (
St. Lawrence County on the state's northern border) are both in upstate New York, while the largest in population (
Kings County) and smallest in area (
New York County) are both part of New York City.
Upstate New York is well known for its cold and snowy winters, particularly in comparison to the more temperate climate of downstate New York. The snowy reputation is especially true for the cities of Buffalo, Rochester, Oswego and Syracuse, and is largely due to
lake-effect snow from Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. The village of
Old Forge in the Adirondacks often vies on winter nights with places like
International Falls, Minnesota and
Fargo, North Dakota for the coldest spot in the nation.
Many of the features of the upstate landscape, such as the
Finger Lakes and the
drumlins that dot the region, are the result of
glaciers during the
Ice Age.
History
Before the arrival of European settlement, the area was inhabited by a mixture of
Iroquois-speaking people (mainly west of the Hudson) and
Algonquian-speaking people (mainly east of the Hudson). The conflict between the two peoples was an important historical force in the days of the early European colonization. The
Haudenosaunee or
Iroquois confederacy of the Five (later Six) Nations was a powerful force in its home territory that extended from the Mohawk River Valley to the western part of the state, and the Iroquois controlled large swaths of territory at various times throughout the northeastern U.S. from this home base. The
Guswhenta (Two Row Wampum Treaty), made with the Dutch government in 1613,
codified relations between the
Haudenosaunee and European colonizers, and formed the basis of subsequent treaties.
The region was important beginning in the very early days of both the
French Colonization and
Dutch colonization, where much of the fur trade of the
New Netherland colony was located in the upper Hudson Valley. In the seventeenth century, the French established trading posts as far south as the shores of
Onondaga Lake, although
Samuel de Champlain had alienated the
Haudenosaunee during military forays from
Quebec. The area was the scene of much of the fighting in the
French and Indian War, events which were depicted in the work of
James Fenimore Cooper.
The region was strategically important in the
American Revolution, and was the scene of several important battles, including the
Battle of Saratoga, which is considered to have been a significant turning point in the war. While New York City remained in the hands of the
British during most of the war, the upstate region was firmly in the hands of the Colonial forces. In
1779, the
Sullivan Expedition, a military campaign ordered by Gen.
George Washington, drove thousands of Iroquois from their lands in the region.
Following the American Revolution, the
United States signed a federal treaty, the
Treaty of Canandaigua, with the Six Nations of the Iroquois, affirming their land rights in what later became Central and Western New York. Nevertheless, extinguishing of Indian title to these lands via non-Federally-sanctioned treaties, such as the
Treaty of Big Tree(External Link
), continued through the early 19th century.
Many of the settlers of Central and Western New York came from the New England States. The
Central New York Military Tract, where many of the townships were given the names of classical military and literary figures by
Robert Harpur, was established to grant land to Revolutionary War veterans.
Battles with British were fought during the
war of 1812 (1812-1815), on land, including the Battle of Plattsburgh, and in the Great Lakes (Ontario and Erie) and St. Lawrence shorelines, including the Battle of
Sackets Harbor.
Both before and after the Revolution, boundary disputes with Massachusetts, Vermont and Great Britain, and subsequent surveying errors, complicated settlement. The Province of New York granted lands to settlers in what is now Vermont at the same time that New Hampshire made grants of the same lands. When Vermont declared independence in 1777, the new Republic of Vermont recognized the New Hampshire grants over those of New York. New Yorkers who lost land in Vermont came to be known as the "Vermont Sufferers" and were granted new lands in 1788 in the Town of
Bainbridge, New York.
The dispute with Massachusetts over lands to the west of Massachusetts was settled in the 1786
Treaty of Hartford by dividing the rights to the land. Sovereignty was granted to the State of New York, but the "pre-emptive" right to seek title to the land from the
Haudenosaunee was granted to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. The eastern boundary of the Massachusetts lands was thus known as the
Preemption Line. This line runs from the Pennsylvania line due north to Lake Ontario, passing through Seneca Lake. The line was surveyed a second time due to initial errors.
The border with Quebec was established as the 45th Parallel in the
Treaty of Paris that ended the American Revolution. This line was surveyed and after the War of 1812, the US Government began to construct
Fort Montgomery at
Rouses Point on
Lake Champlain. Subsequently it was discovered that at that point, the actual 45th parallel was three-quarters of a mile south of the surveyed line, putting the Fort, which became known as "Fort Blunder," in Canada. This wasn't resolved until 1842 with the
Webster-Ashburton Treaty, in which it was decided to leave the border on the meandering line that had been surveyed.
Slavery existed in
New Netherland and the
Province of New York, and New York was in the 1690's the largest importer of slaves among the American colonies. Slavery didn't end with the
American Revolution, although
John Jay introduced an emancipation bill in to the State Assembly as early as 1777.
Sojourner Truth was held as a slave in the
Hudson Valley from the time she was born in 1797 until she escaped in 1826. Through efforts of the
New York Manumission Society and others, New York began to adopt a policy of gradual emancipation in 1799. The law passed in 1817 that would finally emancipate slaves didn't take effect for ten years, giving slaveowners an entire decade to sell their slaves away to other states. When the law finally took effect, the last 2,800 slaves in New York State were emancipated on July 4, 1827.
By
1825, the
Erie Canal opened, allowing the area to become an important component of the 19th century industrial expansion in the
United States. This also promoted trade with
British North America and settlement of newer states in western territories. Later in the century the
New York Central Railroad followed the "water-level route" from New York City to the Great Lakes, contributing to the industrialization of cities along its route.
Upstate New York served as a staging area and refuge for Canadian rebels against Great Britain, as well as Irish-American invaders of Canada, straining British-American relations. In 1837 and 1838, in the aftermath of the
Lower Canada Rebellion, some
Quebecois rebels escaped south to the the North Country, while on the
Niagara Frontier, events of the
Upper Canada Rebellion, also known as the
Patriot War, took place. In the late 1860s, some of the
Fenian Raids were launched across the Niagara Frontier;
Fenians also assembled in
Malone.
Although now largely discredited, the report of the 1905-1907
Mills Commission, charged with investigating the
origins of baseball, named
Cooperstown as the place where
baseball was invented in the 1830s or 1840s by
Abner Doubleday. Cooperstown is the home of the National
Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum.
In the pre-Civil War era, upstate New York became a major center of radical
abolitionist activity and was an important nexus of the
Underground Railroad. Resistance to the
Fugitive Slave Act was particularly heated in the region, punctuated by such events as the
Jerry Rescue. The American
women's rights movement was also born in upstate New York at this time; the first
women's rights convention was held at
Seneca Falls in
1848.
Through the mid and late 19th century, Upstate New York became a hotbed of religious revivialism with myriads of sects establishing themselves during that time, such as the
Oneida Community. Because of the comparative isolation of the region, many of the sects were non-conformist and had numerous difficulties with other local population as well as government authority because of their non-traditional tenets. This led to evangelist
Charles Grandison Finney to coin the term the "
Burned-Over District" for the region. The region is considered to be the cradle of
Mormonism, as well as the
Women's Suffrage movement. It was important historically in the
Shaker movement. The
Mormons,
Seventh-day Adventists and
Spiritualists are the only 21st century survivors of the hundreds of sects created during this time.
In the 19th century, extractive industries changed the landscape.
Potash was manufactured as the land was cleared for farming.
Iron was mined in the Adirondacks and the North Country. By the 1870s, business leaders, concerned about the effect of deforestation on the water supply necessary to the Erie Canal, advocated for the creation of forest preserves in the Adirondacks and the Catskills. The
Adirondack Park and
Catskill Park were created and strengthened by a series of legislation between 1885 and 1894, when the "
Forever Wild" provision of the
New York State Constitution was added.
During the era immediately following
World War II Upstate reached what was probably its peak influence in the national economy. Major local corporations such as
IBM,
General Electric,
Kodak,
Xerox and
Carrier produced cutting edge products for business, government and consumers. The opening of the
New York State Thruway in the mid 1950s gave the region superior access to other eastern markets. This regional advantage faded as many local firms relocated operations to other states, or downsized in the face of foreign competition, similar to other areas in the American
Rust Belt.
In recent decades, with the decline of manufacturing, the area has generally suffered a net population loss. In contrast, many
Amish and
Mennonite families are recent arrivals to the area. Beginning in 1974, many
Mennonite families moved to the
Penn Yan area of
Yates County from
Lancaster County, PA, seeking cheaper farmland. Recently-established
Amish communities are in
St. Lawrence,
Montgomery,
Chautaugua and
Cattaraugus couties.
Five of the six
Iroquois nations have filed land claims against New York State (or have sought settlement of pending claims), based on late 18th-century treaties with the
State of New York and the
United States.
Social, Political and Religious Movements
Religious and Spiritual Figures
Charles Grandison Finney
George Washington Gale
Handsome Lake
Mother Ann Lee
Oren Lyons
William Miller (preacher)
Mordecai Manuel Noah
John Humphrey Noyes
Joseph Smith
Kateri Tekakwitha
The Arts
Literary Figures and Places
Diana Abu-Jaber, memoirist of her Central New York childhood who has set two of her novels there.
Chinua Achebe, the Nigerian writer, is a resident of Annandale-on-Hudson and has taught at Bard College since 1990.
John Ashbery, poet laureate of New York state from 2001 to 2003. Born on a farm near Lake Ontario, he's a resident of Hudson
Russell Banks, several of whose novels are set in Northern New York, who has served as New York State Author
L. Frank Baum, author of The Wonderful Wizard of Oz; resident of Chittenango
T. Coraghessan Boyle, who grew up in the Hudson Valley and who attended college in the North Country, which he describes as the "frozen skullcap of New York State"
Frederick Busch, who taught at Colgate University and whose characters are often Downstate New Yorkers transplanted upstate
Raymond Carver, who taught at Syracuse University
Lucille Clifton, poet, born in Depew. Though African-American, she grew up speaking Polish as well as English in the neighborhood.
James Fenimore Cooper
Robert White Creeley
, professor of poetry at the State University of New York at Buffalo, and New York State Poet from 1989 to 1991
Frederick Exley, from the Watertown area
Tess Gallagher, who taught at Syracuse University
John Gardner, Batavia native and SUNY Binghamton professor
Tim Green, who grew up in Liverpool and who was a student at Syracuse University of Raymond Carver and Tobias Wolff
Washington Irving
Mary Jemison, the "White Woman of the Genesee," whose story was told in J. E. Seaver's classic captivity narrative "Narrative of the Life of Mrs. Mary Jemison" (1824; latest ed. 1967)
William J. Kennedy, the Bard of Albany
James Howard Kunstler, resident of Saratoga Springs
Alison Lurie, resident of Ithaca
Bill McKibben, longtime resident of the Keene Valley in the Adirondacks
Herman Melville, resident of Albany and graduate of the Lansingburgh Academy, who began writing his first novels in Lansingburgh
Lorrie Moore, whose novel "Who Will Run The Frog Hospital?" is set in the Lake George area
Howard Frank Mosher, usually associated with the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont, but who grew up in Cato and who has written about the North Country
William Henry Harrison Murray, known as "Adirondack Murray"
Vladimir Nabokov, resident of Ithaca
Joyce Carol Oates, born in Lockport
Camille Anna Paglia, born in Endicott
David Pietrusza of Amsterdam
Daniel Pinkwater, resident of the Hudson Valley
Richard Russo, from Johnstown and Gloversville, whose early novels are set in the Mohawk Valley
Edna St. Vincent Millay, resident of Austerlitz
Delmore Schwartz, poet, Syracuse University professor and mentor to Lou Reed
Julia Spencer-Fleming, native of Plattsburgh and resident of Argyle and Liverpool, whose books are set in the Adirondacks
Trevanian, born in Granville
Mark Twain, resident of Elmira and Buffalo
Kurt Vonnegut, who began his literary career in Schenectady while working for General Electric in the early 1950s, and who set some of his novels in "Ilium," a fictionalized Schenectady
Edmund Wilson, summer resident of Talcottville and author of "Upstate: Records and Recollections of Northern New York." New York: Farrar, Straus & Giroux, 1971; reprint, Syracuse: Syracuse University Press, 1990 and "Apologies to the Iroquois." New York: Farrar, Straus & Cudahy, 1960; reprint, paper, Syracuse: Syracuse University Press, 1992
Tobias Wolff, who taught at Syracuse University
Yaddo
The Music Scene
Harold Arlen, native of Buffalo, composer of popular song including "Over the Rainbow"
Blotto, a New Wave band from Albany
Joe Bonamassa, born in Utica
Brand New Sin, a hard rock band from Syracuse
The Burns Sisters of Ithaca
Elizabeth Cotten, resident of Syracuse
Chuck Cuminale of Rochester, aka Colorblind James of The Colorblind James Experience
Ani DiFranco of Buffalo
Ronnie James Dio, raised in Cortland
Donna The Buffalo of Trumansburg
Ray Evans, songwriter and native of Salamanca
Finger Lakes GrassRoots Festival of Music and Dance
Renée Fleming, soprano, who grew up in Rochester, studied at the Crane School of Music at the State University of New York at Potsdam, the University of Rochester's Eastman School of Music and Juilliard.
The Great Blue Heron Music Festival of Sherman
The Horse Flies of Trumansburg
Son House, resident of Rochester
Rick James, born in Buffalo
Caffe Lena of Saratoga Springs, the oldest continuously-operating coffee house in North America(External Link
), founded by Lena Spencer
the song "Low Bridge, Everybody Down", also known as "Fifteen Years on the Erie Canal" or "Fifteen Miles on the Erie Canal", by Thomas S. Allen
Chuck Mangione of Rochester
Gap Mangione of Rochester
Natalie Merchant of Jamestown
Mitch Miller, born in Rochester, a graduate of the Eastman School of Music
Chancellor Olcott, songwriter of "My Wild Irish Rose" and "When Irish Eyes are Smiling"
Old Crow Medicine Show, originally formed around Trumansburg and Ithaca
Pete Seeger, protest singer and environmental activist. Longtime resident of Fishkill, he co-founded the Hudson River Sloop Clearwater organization
Joanne Shenandoah of the Oneida Nation
Kim Simmonds of the British blues band Savoy Brown, now a resident of Oswego
Spyro Gyra of Buffalo
10,000 Maniacs of Jamestown
Alice Tully, opera singer and philanthropist, born in Corning(External Link
)
Jimmy Van Heusen, songwriter, native of Syracuse, 1944 winner of an Academy Award for Best Original Song for "Swinging on a Star"
Jerry Jeff Walker, born in Oneonta
Alec Wilder, native of Rochester, composer
Thomasina Winslow, born New Baltimore, resident of the Albany area
Tom Winslow of New Baltimore
Woodstock Music Festival
See also the musicians of the Woodstock area
Artists and Artistic Movements
Milton Avery, born in Altmar, buried in Woodstock
Byrdcliffe Colony
Frederic Church
Thomas Cole
Sanford Robinson Gifford
The Hudson River School
Diane Janowski, Elmira artist and filmmaker(External Link
)
Rockwell Kent
Robert Mangold
Grandma Moses
Georgia O'Keeffe, resident of Lake George
Frederick Remington
Alfred Stieglitz, resident of Lake George
William James Stillman
Seneca Ray Stoddard
Cartoonists
Brad Anderson of Marmaduke, lives in Chautauqua County
Johnny Hart (of B.C. and The Wizard of Id), from Endicott
Margaret Shulock of Six Chix, resides in Franklinville
Tom Toles, Washington Post editorial cartoonist, from Buffalo
Garry Trudeau of Doonesbury, raised in Saranac Lake
Architects and Architecture
Adirondack Architecture, the Great Camp style
Daniel Burnham, Chicago architect born in Henderson
Cobblestone Masonry (External Link
)(External Link
)
William L. Coulter, Adirondack architect
Andrew Jackson Downing
William West Durant
Harvey Ellis(External Link
)
Irving Gill, San Diego architect born in Tully
Philip Hooker
Octagon houses, a mid-nineteenth-century fad. Extant examples can be seen in Syracuse, Camillus, and Canandaigua
Olana
James Renwick, Jr., born in Bloomingdale in Essex County
Joseph Lyman Silsbee, Syracuse architect who upon relocating to Chicago gave Frank Lloyd Wright his first drafting job
Ward Wellington Ward
Artisans
Benjamin A. Muncil, Adirondack master builder
Design
the Adirondack Chair
the Adirondack guideboat
the American Arts and Crafts or American Craftsman Movement
Elbert Hubbard, founder of the Roycroft Community
Adelaide Alsop Robineau, potter and editor of the ceramics publication Keramic Studio(External Link
)
Shaker Furniture
Steuben Glass Works
Gustav Stickley, Arts and Crafts furniture designer, architect and editor of The Craftsman magazine
L & J.G. Stickley, furniture designers and manufacturers(External Link
)
Show Business Types with Upstate New York Roots
George Abbott, theater producer and director, playwright, screenwriter, and film director and producer whose career spanned more than seven decades
Lucille Ball
Tom Cruise
William Devane
Kirk Douglas
Annette Funicello, born in Utica
Richard Gere
George 'Gabby' Hayes
Mary-Margaret Humes
Grace Jones
David Hyde Pierce
Rachael Ray
John Sayles
Rod Serling
the Shubert Brothers
Maureen Stapleton, born in Troy
Major museums
Adirondack Museum, Blue Mountain Lake
Albright-Knox Art Gallery, Buffalo
Albany Institute of History and Art, Albany
Antique Boat Museum, Clayton
Corning Museum of Glass, Corning
Chapman Historical Museum, Glens Falls
Cuba Cheese Museum
, Cuba
George Eastman House, Rochester
Erie Canal Museum, Syracuse
Erie Canal Village
, Rome
Everson Museum, Syracuse
Farmers' Museum, Cooperstown